Nowadays, Iceland has become super popular with tourists. Hotels are packed, some more are being built all over the city, and english is the primary language heard in the streets, so it might become harder to find the true heart, the true Reykjavik lifestyle now, but I still managed to find some way to get in touch with the locals.

Indeed, here are 6 things to make you feel like a local in Reykjavik.

1 – GO TO THE LOCAL POOL

The pool is basically the after work for Icelanders. They’re fed by natural hot sources, and they’re usually outside, with one big pool to swim and several hot steam bathes to hang out. I went to Sundhöll Reykjavikur (Baronstigur 101), a local pool in the center of Reykjavik. Although the few meters outside between the building and the hot bath that I had to go through in my bathing suit, barefoot under the snow, were a bit challenging, being in a hot bath with snow falling around you is pretty magical. A handful of regulars were there, not minding the cold. That’s the local experience, forget the expensive blue lagoon.

2 – DUG YOUR CAR OUT OF THE SNOW

Well it had to happen at some point. I gave the wonderful advice to the driver to just “get into the snow, we’ve got to park somewhere anyway”, and sure enough the tire had barely touched the snow that we ended up stuck there, with most of the car still on the road. I guess there’s a reason I don’t have my license … The good thing is that Icelanders are pretty prepared against that kind of weather, they will clear the roads in the morning, dug out your car, or immediately stop to tow those foolish tourists who don’t even have their license out of the snow …

3 – FEED THE BIRDS OF THE LAKE

The huge lake in downtown Reykjavik is completely frozen in winter, except for a small spot near the dock where all the bird congregates. It was the view that welcomed me to Iceland, and combined with the snow, the night, and the little lights in the houses behind, it really looked like Santa Claus’ hometown. The locals feed these birds whenever they have the chance, so don’t throw out that old bread!

4 – BUY SOME SKYR AT BONUS

Iceland’s local specialties are rather meaty and disgusting, so not for me at all. A good way to figure out the eating habits of a country is to simply go to a supermarket. In the Bonus stores (the cheapest supermarkets in Iceland), you’ll quickly be able to observe that Icelanders survive mostly on frozen meat, mexican food (don’t ask), bread, and skyr, a kind of yogurt. Try some!

5 – DANCE TILL THE MORNING

Reykjavik’s nightlife now has a big reputation, but no one does it like the locals. They start well after midnight, and don’t stop until morning. Whatever the weather, the girls will wear dresses and heels. I saw them pass me by in the snow, while I was shaking inside my 42 layers of clothes and slipping on the ice despite my hiking boots. It’s hard to believe we’re from the same species.

6 – BE AMAZINGLY FEMINIST

Yep, gender equality is a reality in Iceland, whether we’re talking about education, rights, or even politics. Icelander men are really proud of their women and support feminists movements just as strongly as the women themselves. Iceland has been ahead of everybody else on that one for a good long time (it’s not only women, they recently elected an openly gay president), and is a real example to follow!

It wasn’t easy to cut it down to five, but here are my favorites :

1. Musée Carnavalet

This museum is all about Paris, so it’s the perfect one to get to know this beautiful city. My favorite part is the Georges Fouquet shop, all in art nouveau. I advise you to only see the permanent collections. You have to pay to enter the temporary exhibitions, and they often get a little bit too specific.

2. Petit Palais

The Petit Palais (Small Palace) is the Paris museum of fine arts. You will find french art in all its forms, from all era. Very interesting. Also the building (and its twin the Grand Palais on the other side of the street) is beautiful in itself.

3. Musée du Quai Branly

Maybe my personal favorite, the Quai Branly displays indigenous art and culture. I could spend hours in the permanent collection that takes you around this exotic and ancient version of our world. Some very interesting temporary exhibitions to keep an eye out for.

4. L’Orangerie

There’s one reason to go to L’Orangerie, and that’s to see Claude Monet’s Water Lilies. That’s enough in my opinion, but you will also enjoy a lot of other paintings by famous artists like Picasso, Renoir, Cézanne, … Plus, the museum is situated in the Tuileries Gardens, another must see !

5. Le musée de la Vie Romantique

Literally the museum of Romantic Life. The museum revolves around the life and work of George Sand (famous writer known for her numerous affairs) and houses temporary exhibitions as well. The main attraction is the secret garden and café, a beautiful spot that will make you forget the roaring city around you. A place to feel like a parisian on a country outing in 1830.

There’s also the Cinémathèque Française (film history archives), the MEP (contemporary photographic art), the Musée Guimet (asian art), the Centre Pompidou (modern art), … if museums is your « raison d’etre », there’s enough to last you months !

I didn’t mention the Louvre. I know it’s the big museum, but I really don’t like it. There’s a lot of people and so much art that you are condemned to only see a very small portion of it (and usually it’s renaissance paintings that end up looking all the same after half an hour). But I understand it is a landmark, so if you must, my advice is to wear good shoes and pick which part of the museum you want to see before getting there !

Have you visited any of these museums in Paris? What did you think of them ?

I have not much to say about Etosha, because there’s really nothing to say, but everything to see. So I tried to select my best pictures from the two days I spent there so you can enjoy a bit of the bush as well.

The camera I use, my trusted Canon Powershot, is amazing but has practically no zoom. This way, you know when you look at the pictures that the animals were actually that close!

Every water hole is the stage for the big game of life, where species come and go, trying not to get eaten by the bigger animals.

Part of what makes viewing animals so easy there is how flat and dry Etosha is. There’s no big trees, only small bush, and, especially in the dry season, animals have to come out often to drink at the few waterholes. The park is also mostly made of a giant white salt pan that most animals won’t dare to cross.

I’m still missing a leopard to check the Big 5 off my list, but I’m so happy with all the animals I got to see at Etosha!

You can explore Etosha with your own car or you can join a tour. I visited the park with Acacia Africa, and my favorite part about that was the place were we camped. In the middle of the parc there’s a place called Okaukuejo Camp, and it was the most amazing accommodation ever! At the edge of the camp, there’s a water hole.

Around the water hole, there’s a lot of benches and places to observe quietly what’s going on. At night, a red light comes on so you can keep watching the animals without disturbing them.

How can I say this … it’s like watching TV, like Game of Thrones, but in real life. The animals are coming there very slowly, always ready to bolt should a predator show up.

Elephants come by dozens and the bulls fight for their family’s right to access water. One night, a bunch of giraffes were drinking cautiously, when suddenly the cries of hyenas resounded all around the water hole in the darkness. The giraffes stopped drinking and stayed still and wide eyed for several minutes. Chills!

Climbing Dune 45 is not easy. I go barefoot, digging my toes in the sand and placing my feet in the footsteps of the person in front of me. The sand is already packed there and it makes the going easier. Soon, my thighs are burning anyway. I keep going, focusing on the feeling of being a child in a giant sandbox instead of the pain. Quickly, something else starts distracting me: the unbelievable views on either side of the dune. One is bathed in sunlight, the other is still a little in the shade of the dune. Both are otherworldly …

At the top, I discover dunes upon dunes of orange sand. I could keep walking forever, always believing I’m following the same dune top. It’s an ocean!

Now, if I have one word of advice for exploring Dune 45, it’s to run down the shadowy side. I ran down the sunny side, which was tone of fun, but the sand started getting uncomfortably hot under my bare feet. Anyway: RUN!

Right after Dune 45, we drove to Deadvlei.

Deadvlei was very surprising. Out of nowhere, nestled among the orange dunes, this white pan stands out the test of time.

Those trees have been dead for about 700 years! The place used to be an oasis, which is how the trees came to grow, but the water changed its course and the trees died, but the weather was (and is) so hot that the wood is now too dry to decompose!

Anyway, this place is a photographer’s dream. The sky is so blue and the ground so red … by the way, do you know why the sand here is so much more of an intense orange/red than in the Sahara desert (for example)? The sand here is actually very rich in iron. In fact, bring a strong magnet with you and just brush it on the sand. The magnet will be full of dark particles of iron!

How to get there? If you have your own 4×4 car, you can drive to Dune 45, and then follow the road towards Deadvlei. You’ll have to stop a bit before the Deadvlei parking lot anyway and take a shuttle. The sand here is too deep for inexperienced drivers and normal cars (I saw one car try anyway, didn’t go very far…).

From the parking lot, there’s still a short walk (about 1 km) to Deadvlei itself. Take a lot of water. That walk nearly killed me, not because it was hard, but because of dehydration. Do not go barefoot either, the sand is too hot! And try to go as early in the morning as possible. This is the desert, it’s hot. If you don’t have a car, you have to join a tour (there’s many going this way). I went with Acacia Africa!

This village is just a cluster of restaurants and tourist stuff around the main road. There, everything has names like “Happy Hogs”, “Lothlorien”, “The Edge”, all kind of names that would feel right in the Shire.

That alone would have been enough to brighten my day, but the place has in fact a lot of activities to offer. And in everything you do there, you’ve got the eerie feeling that you could glimpse a fairy or a hobbit around any corner …

The Fairy Realm

The fairy realm is a garden full of statues representing fairies and other fantastical beasts, beautiful and magical!

The Bathtub

This very famous bathtub is situated inside the “Away with the fairies backpackers”, you can of course visit even if you don’t stay there. But if you do, you can actually take a warm bath!

Madonna and Child Waterfall

The hike to the Madonna and Child waterfall starts at Away with the fairies, and goes deep into the forest. On the way, you can see the Big Tree and another waterfall. It’s a rather wild and dark part of the forest, perfect for fairies!

The Edge

The Edge is a labyrinth experience with a beautiful view on the mountains (but that’s true of pretty much anywhere in Hogsback)!

Eco Shrine

The Eco Shrine is an amazing outdoor space where art and earth come together. It’s absolutely magical, but often closed, so go there as soon as you see it’s open!

Butterfly Bistro

One place to eat: the Butterfly Bistro. The staff is adorable, the prices are small and they have a lot of vegetarian and vegan options. Also, there’s butterflies everywhere (fake ones of course, but beautiful all the same)!

There’s also many activities (canoeing, abseiling, hiking and more) and stuff to do here if you stay longer. Hobbiton also offers leadership courses and volunteering opportunities. Hogsback is definitely one of those quirky hippie places that I love, that are a bit off the map and concerned with the environnement and not only in getting more tourists!

Where to stay? I stayed at Terra Khaya, which is the ultimate eco-backpackers. The real dream: puppies and kittens everywhere, outdoor showers, off the grid energy, delicious homemade meals, free craft center, … I really recommend it! What’s more, you get a free night and meal if you manage to reach the place using only public transport (of course I made it, come on!).

To reach Hogsback, take the bus to East London, then another bus to Alice. The bus will leave you where mini taxis (those shuttles that wait until they’re full) can pick you up and bring you to Hogsback. Easy peasy!

But, as much as I love this city, going there is growing to be more and more of a challenge, because I know that everything I might do there is going to take a big toll on my wallet.

If you really want to see the city, and are willing to forget about Oxford Street and its shopping madness, here is a guide to the perfect budget weekend in London.

DAY 1

The first thing of the day is a visit to the British Museum. I know, when you get somewhere new you don’t always want to start with a museum, but it will save you some walking time to start there.

The British Museum (Great Russell Street, free entry, Underground station Holborn) has one of the largest collection in the world, so you’re not going to be able to see everything. My favorite department is Ancient Egypt and you can also go on a hunt for the Crystal Skull of Indiana Jones. It’s in there somewhere, tell me if you ever manage to find it !

Once you’re done with Egyptian coffins, walk a little to reach Covent Garden. You’ll pass by the Royal Opera House on Bow Street, a beautiful building. In Covent Garden, you can make a round of the shops, including Lush, a tiny one selling tea and adorable teapots and, if you’re with kids or are yourself still a kid inside, the Build-a-Bear shop (I’ll let them explain to you what this is about, it’s more fun this way). Resist buying anything if you’re really on a budget, there’s nothing indispensable.

Take your time outside for the shops and the amazing street performers, but then don’t forget to go inside to walk around the market. There’s a lot of restaurants and street food shops everywhere, so you can take this opportunity to fill your belly and get ready for the second part of the day !

Walk towards Charing Cross station and then turn left in Whitehall Street. You should start seeing horse guards wearing the red uniform, and keep a look out for Downing Street on your right. And at the end of Whitehall Street, here you go :

The Palace of Westminster and Big Ben !

Cross Westminster Bridge, turn left and walk along the river Thames. Walk past the London Eye and keep going until you reach the Tate Modern and, just beyond that, Shakespeare’s Globe.

Shakespeare’s Globe is a theater recreating plays from, well, Shakespeare. The theatre itself was designed by the famous playwright, it is round with an open roof. And the best about it is that, if you make your booking in advance, you can see a play for only 5 pounds. Fair warning though, the 5 pounds seats are actually not seated, you’ll be standing up in front of the stage for the entire play. The good thing is that you’ll be very close to the actors ! Representations can be at diverse hours in the afternoon, so depending on the time, you can choose to go to the Tate Modern before or after the play.

The Tate Modern (free entry) is a famous museum of modern art. You’ll see weird things, ugly things, provocative things, and you’ll get lost trying to get out (I mean, I hope so, otherwise it’s just me that easily gets lost). On the front lawn, there’s sometimes artists selling their handmade products. If it’s sunny, it’s really a nice place to sit down for a break.

As night starts to set, take the tube to Piccadilly Circus to see this landmark and then go south for a walk around Soho (everything between Piccadilly and Oxford Street), where you’ll find a great place to eat at Beatroot (92 Berwick Street, less than 10 pounds a meal), and after that you’ll be left to enjoy the best nightlife in London for as long as your money and your sleepiness will let you !

As usual, I encourage you to use Couchsurfing or Airbnb, as staying with locals is the best, cheapest and greenest way to enjoy a city. But if you didn’t find a local to host you, I’d like to give a shout-out to the YHA London Earl’s Court Hostel (38 Bolton Gardens), the only hostel I could find in London that is actually making an effort to reduce their energy consumption. They are well situated, near the underground station Earl’s Court, and you can find a bed in a dormitory for less than 25 pounds if you book in advance. I have not tried it out myself yet, but reviews are good.

DAY 2

Once you’re up, make a grocery run to get breakfast and enough for a picnic, then make your way to Buckingham Palace to see what everybody passing through London has to see : the Changing of the Guard ceremony.

The Changing of the Guard ceremony happens everyday at 11H30 between April and July. The rest of the year, it’s only once every two days. If needed, just switch Day 1 and Day 2 in this itinerary to be able to attend.

Arrive in advance and find a good spot on the right side near the Gates to Green Park (can’t miss them). Right in front of you is the Victoria Memorial (the guards will be walking around it), and take the opportunity to observe the flag above Buckingham Palace : if it’s the British Union Flag, it means the queen is not there, but if it’s the Royal Standard, then she’s certainly having her mid-morning cup of tea a few meters from you right now !

After the ceremony, simply turn and walk into Green Park. Keep going into Hyde Park, enjoy the peace and play with the squirrels until you find the right spot to enjoy your picnic.

Once you’re ready to go back to the bustle of the city, take the tube to Camden Town station to walk around Camden Market. It’s huge, sells everything and anything, and you’ll definitely get lost in this one (if you don’t, then I really have a problem).

The last one I’ll leave out as an option, to do instead of Camden Market : the Tower of London. I know it’s not a budget activity (23,10 pounds if you book in advance online), but it truly is something to see, and, if you can afford it, I really encourage you to go there.

On a practical note, London is a big city, and so I’ve included in this itinerary several underground journeys. The cheapest way to travel around London is to take a 2 days Oyster Card for 15 pounds. You can buy one at any station and you can also take the bus with it, in case your heart is set on climbing in one of those red buses !

That’s it folks ! I hope you’ll enjoy your stay in this beautiful city, and don’t forget to tell me if you try out one of my perfect budget weekends!

Although Paris is a hub of culture and the place to live in if you work in media or art, sometimes I just get really frustrated by the city.

I’m always bewildered by the stars in the eyes of strangers when I tell them where I’m from. For most people around the world, Paris is glamorous, sexy, chic, … But that’s because Parisians are really good at make believe and denial (more on that later).

So, here is the truth about Paris.

IT’S LOUD – I’m fine with loud if it’s party-loud. With music and people laughing. But Paris is often loud in another way. People yelling, cursing, and the most annoying sound in the world for city dwellers : honks. The same twenty imbeciles getting angry every morning under my window because yes, sometimes the light is red. Can you believe the nerve of that light ?

PEOPLE ARE MEAN – That’s not true about everyone of course, but Parisians tend to be mean. I don’t know how many times I’ve been pushed in the street or got the door of the subway slammed in my face. Everyday, I see old people standing up in the subway with no one giving their seat up. I understand that people here are stressed out, especially by the fact that everybody else is stressed out. But I’m sure people in other places of the world have tight schedules and worries too, but Paris is still the worst I’ve seen so far.

NOT THAT SAFE – Paris is not that safe. I find it very funny when friends or family get worried that I’m traveling alone. Obviously, I could encounter a serial killer anywhere, but Paris does not make you feel safe, especially as a woman. There’s a lot of talk nowadays about sexual harassment in the streets of Paris. People are slowly realizing it’s an issue, something some of us (the victims obviously) have known for quite some time. I consider myself as a rather brave person, I’m not easily frightened off, but you will never find me alone at night in Paris wearing a dress. Never.

IT’S DIRTY (and smelly) – Again something that tourists don’t seem to notice, but obvious to anyone staying a bit longer in Paris. I remember that the first other capital city I saw when I was a teenager was London, and I was amazed at how clean it was. So, it was possible to have a place with so much people in it and to still keep it clean ? Wow. I guess in London (and pretty much everywhere else), it’s not okay to throw your cigarette butts, gums, plastic bag, and pretty much anything you can find in your pockets just right in the middle of the street. You can if you want though, no one will look at you the wrong way if you do, not even the police. Just watch where you put your feet while you do it.

IT’S POLLUTED – Paris is breaking records on the pollution front these days. At some point in march 2015, it was the most polluted city in the world ! I learned that at the same time everyone else did, when I got back home after walking around all day, breathing the worst air on the planet. Great ! That’s where I get back on my « denial » thing. When I was saying that Parisians were in denial, I was thinking that, if we were not so concerned with keeping our glamorous image.

There’s a lot of solutions that we could try to make Paris better : ban most of the cars, develop the bicycle paths, install solar energy systems, make a law against dropping your garbage in the street, …

A lot of european cities are already doing these things, but we refuse to change (ah, the french …).

But, as the rest of Scotland, Edinburgh can be hard on the budget, so here is the perfect weekend in Edinburgh that won’t make your wallet cry :

DAY 1

The first thing to do is to walk the Royal Mile, Edinburgh’s life center. Start at the Palace of Holyroodhouse and make your way up until you arrive at the Castle. Along the Royal Mile, here are a few stops I would recommend (all of them are free) :

The museum of childhood (42 High Street), a strange little place devoid of tourists where you’ll find  three stories full of old toys. A little creepy at times (I’m not the only one to find old dolls creepy right?) but fun !

Saint Giles Cathedral. I’m not in the habit of visiting religious sites, but I stumbled in there to take shelter from the rain. I still don’t know why but this cathedral’s beauty and grandeur really moved me. I couldn’t stop thinking about the fact that it was made so long ago by people’s hands and sweat and I felt humbled.

The Writer’s house (access through Lady Stair’s House in Lawnmarket). Here you’ll find relics from three famous scottish writers (Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott and Robert Louis Stevenson). A quick visit for literature lovers.

The Royal Mile ends in front of the Castle. There’s a horde of tourists waiting in front for the opening of the doors and there’s a very high entry fee, so don’t go in. There’s a lot of better castles in Scotland where you won’t be run down by people with cameras anyway.

I expect you’ll start feeling hungry by this time, so make your way south. Just in front of the New University is a place called « Central Takeway » (15-16 Teviot Place) that makes really good lunch deals. Don’t expect a gourmet meal, they only serve really greasy and filling food. When I found this place I caught a lunch deal, for only 2£ I had one big slice of pizza and a good serving of chips. There’s not a lot of room but you can sit down at the counter.

Once your stomach feels satisfied, you’ll find you’re very near the National Museum of Scotland (Chambers Street, free entry). If you only do one museum in Edinburgh, it has to be the one. It’s huge and covers absolutely everything that ever happened in Scotland. Before you leave, make your way to the roof terrace. The view up there is unbelievable, you can see the whole of Edinburgh around you !

At 3pm or 4pm depending on the season, you can join the Potter Trail, a free walking tour centered around Harry Potter. Even if you’re not a huge nerd like me, you can still enjoy the visit of some corners of Edinburgh you would not find alone, along with the stories about the place delivered by their amazing guides. The walk starts in front of the Greyfriar’s Bobby Bar and lasts for about an hour and a half. The tour will take you through the Greyfriars’ Graveyard, where you can see several famous names on the gravestones. It’s supposed to be the most haunted place in Scotland … All information about the tour to be found here

At this point, you can return to your accommodation for a break and a meal. I encourage you of course to use Couchsurfing or Airbnb, as staying with locals is the best, cheapest and greenest way to enjoy a city. But if you didn’t find a local to host you, there’s a wealth of hostels in Edinburgh. I visited in late september and the first two hostels I went to were booked, so try to anticipate so you don’t find yourself having to take a room in an expensive hotel.

Eat with your host of make a grocery run to cook at your hostel. As I was a little bit out of options, I stayed at the High Street Hostel where you’ll find a good atmosphere and a lot of backpackers for 15£/night.

Right before sunset, go for a stroll (and a drink if you can afford it) through Grassmarket, the meeting point of Edinburgh’s night birds.

DAY 2

After taking a good breakfast with your host / bunkmates, head north for New Town.

On the way, stop at the National Gallery of Scotland (two buildings : one on Princes Street and the other at The Mound, free entry). If you’re not in the mood to spend three hours looking at paintings, go straight upstairs for the masterpieces : Delacroix, Monet, Gauguin, …

Take your time discovering New Town and swing by Henderson’s (94 Hanover Street). Henderson’s is a vegetarian restaurant where you can eat your fill for less than 10£. If the sun is out, go downstairs to their grocery shop instead to buy what you need for a picnic, it will be even less expensive !

Take your full belly or your picnic all the way to Inverleith Park (where you can enjoy the said picnic). The walk there will take you through Edinburgh’s suburb, where there are no more tourists and you can see how Edinburgh’s inhabitants actually live (which is not too badly).

Right next to Inverleith Park are the Royal Botanic Gardens (free entry). It was pouring rain when I went, so I don’t think I was able to really appreciate the place (and the squirrels were all hiding), but I could tell it had the potential for a peaceful and magnificent afternoon.

That’s it ! Although Edinburgh is best seen on foot, you can always take the bus, especially for Inverleith Park that can seem a bit far for those not accustomed to walking all day.

I hope this guide to the perfect budget weekend in Edinburgh was helpful !

You don’t need any prior experience to walk the West Highland Way, other than being in good health. I did it as a complete newbie and I managed. The trail is well-marked and there’s so many people doing this trek that, if you run into trouble while being alone, you would only have to wait for about 10 minutes before another hiker shows up. That’s how long I had to wait in September when I felt skittish about going alone through some Highland Cattle that blocked the trail.

If you go there in July-August, I heard there’s even more people on the trail. It would be a shame in my opinion, since some of my best memories there where when I was completely alone in the highlands, with no sign of human activity anywhere and just the endless trail in front of me. That’s an impressive sight.

How long does it take ? There’s several itinerary available. Usually, it takes between six to nine days to complete it. I chose the six days option. Most people I saw along the trail were doing it in six or seven days, but half of them decided to take a bit more time after the third day (the hardest one on the legs) !

Side note : every year in June is the West Highland Way Race, where people run the trail in less than 35 hours ! But these people are obviously crazy. Thinking back on some hard parts of the trail, it seems completely impossible to me to run instead of slowly dragging your feet while hyperventilating …

To end with the practical side of this post : there’s an amazing company called Travel lite that will take your backpack or suitcase and deposit it every night where you intend to sleep. No matter how many days it takes you to do the trail or how heavy your luggage is, it’s only 45£ by bag. Even for a budget traveller like me, it was well worth it rather than having to carry my tent and all of my stuff with me. You might not need it if you choose to stay in guesthouses and hotels rather than camp out, but I’m pretty sure it will cost you more in the end.

My one regret is that I had to miss out on the fourth day because of a knee injury (not related to the trail, I had a bad knee before). I walked through the pain the rest of the way, and I don’t regret it, but because of this I don’t think I’m done with the West Highland Way. I will come back one day and do it in full !

You only need one book to walk the West Highland Way, it’s the one by Charlie Loram. There’s hand drawn maps really easy to follow, indications of every accommodations and places to eat on the way and every thing else you might want to know about the trail.

When I got to India, absolutely everybody, Indians and tourists alike, told me that Pushkar was the best place to celebrate Holi. Apparently, it was also the safest, especially for a woman. In big cities, I was told not to go out alone during Holi, and that even in a group I was in danger of being touched in the wrong places, or worse. I also heard tales of violence, of people throwing things way more disgusting than powder and water, and of every Indian being generally high out of his mind on “special lassi”.

So I decided to be reasonable (for once) and made my way to Pushkar a few days before the Holi Festival. There, all the guesthouses were completely booked and the streets full of tourists. I had stayed off the beaten path for the first part of my Indian trip and was shocked to see them all at once. It looked like everybody traveling through India at that time had converged on Pushkar. Suddenly, my days were filled with white girls parading in mini shorts, hippies going around barefoot, a hundred stalls selling “pashmina” and shopping as the only activity on the menu. I was a bit lost.

In the nights before Holi in Pushkar, there were always things happening in the main square : a show with dances, music, fireworks, … the atmosphere was amazing.

On the morning of Holi, I went out early with my colors in my hands and some old clothes. The first Indian I met spread powder on my cheeks, wishing me a “Happy Holi”. I did the same thing to him, smiling.

As I kept going towards the main square, the street was growing more and more busy. Soon enough, I could hear the music, and I was stopped every few steps and color spread on my face. When I got to the main square, the sight was as crazy as I expected. A huge crowd was dancing on trance music in a cloud of pink powder. Now and then, someone would throw some powder in the air, making the scene completely unrealistic.

I got out of the crowd a few minutes later, already exhausted and covered in colors from head to toe. I rejoined my group of friends to go wander in the streets. Only the kids were throwing powder and water at us, laughing and having fun the way I imagined Holi would be. All the Indians (only men) that were there always insisted to touch our faces.

It was harmless on its own, but it was not traditional : Holi as an Indian festival is only about throwing powder, never touching. And I sometimes found myself in the middle of a group of Indians all trying to put powder on me at the same time, which was just too much. Some were even so obsessed with touching me (and maybe a little drunk), that in their haste they would put powder in my eyes (which burns like hell).

I understood after a while : Pushkar is the best place for Holi for us tourists. The entire experience is tailored for us : trance music, party, shopping, safe streets, … But some Indians coming here for Holi are using our tourist status and lack of knowledge to once more satiate their curiosity for white people. (If you’ve ever been to India, you’ll know this curiosity is a thing, and really not a racist comment on my part). During the two hours I spent outside that morning, I was touched on the face by countless people, and figured in countless photos (sometimes they would ask politely, sometimes not).

I know this is all a rather negative review, but the truth is I was disappointed in Holi. I wanted to play, to run down the streets, to throw color to people, to laugh, … and instead I felt like I was in a very loud and crowded night club. I’m sure some people enjoyed it very much, but that’s not my kind of thing. I don’t think I saw anything of the real Holi as it’s meant to be.

I asked a lot of questions to the other travelers I met on the rest of my trip to try and figure out where was really the best place for Holi, but everybody I met was either in Pushkar or in a bigger town like Jaipur where they only participated in the Holi organized by their guesthouse because it was “not safe” to go outside.

It’s too bad that this day “for color and joy” that’s so much advertised is now only an excuse to do everything that’s not permitted in every day life : get drunk, violate girls, fight, … Would Holi be better without Indians? Where could I have found an “authentic” Holi? Maybe it’s just one more way for India to make it difficult for the traveler to understand her. Why should I be surprised? This country is so complex, it doesn’t give anything away easily.

Some advice for celebrating Holi: wear clothes you can throw right afterward, including underwear and shoes (plastic shoes are good, or some people wrapped them in plastic bags before going out). In the morning, put oil everywhere. You can find almond oil in any store in India. Don’t forget your face, hands, feet if you’re wearing sandals, back and chest (the powder goes down the collar of your shirt).

With the oil, it’ll be way easier to wash afterwards. If you have long hair, put them in a bun and apply oil also. For men, don’t bother wearing a shirt, they’ll be ripped out by the locals. Carry with you as little as possible. If you really want a camera, get a waterproof case. Finally, most of the celebration happens in the morning, so don’t sleep too late!